B&S Vertical 8HP troubles

[Puddin99]

I am resurecting a RT8S Snapper rototiller that has a 8HP vertical engine. I can get the engine to run, but can't seem to get it 'right'. For one thing, There is supposed to be a spring that goes along the engine speed control rod but I'm not sure where the other end goes. From what I can tell it seems that it just ensures that there is no slack in the control rod. yes/no? The other rod end is connected to the govenor linkage.

It seems like I can only get the engine to run at full speed and there is no low speed.

This is the engine #:
190707-6010-01

I purchased a new carb for it. The old one was froze and could no get it apart. It seems to run fine. I think it needs a little bit higher rpm out of it. When I put load under it while tilling, it seems like I can kill it pretty easy. But maybe it's realated to how the govenor rod spring is connected. Not sure.

Not sure what else I can offer up for information.

[Merkava_4]

There is supposed to be a spring that goes along the engine speed control rod but I'm not sure where the other end goes.

Look at the drawing on Page 24 of Section 4 in the Single Cylinder L-Head Service Manual.

[Puddin99]

Thanks for the reply. I had looked at this already. My setup looks like Fig 106, but it doesn't show what the right side of the spring connects to. Is it the same arm that the linkage goes to (wouldn't make sense to me, but could)? Is there something else in the govenor that it connects to?

In Fig 107, it almost looks like the same spring connects to something different.

[bgsengine]

small spring that wraps around throttle rod will hook in same holes as the rod, or, if there are small separate holes in governor arm and throttle lever, can hook in those holes as well.

it won't affect your "only runs at full speed" issue , which sounds more like a carburetor or air intake or compression issue. (or possibly a marginal ignition system) - try a new spark plug?

[Puddin99]

There is a hole 'near' in the governor but when there, and adjusting the engine speed, the spring pops out. Way too tight.

I have put in a new plug and gapped it. The ignition was converted to a non-points system before I got it. When it runs at full speed it's fine, althought I think it should be a bit higher rpm. There really isn't too much to the carb.

I will try a compression test next I guess. What should I expect for compression?

[38racing]

make sure the idle speed screw has not been turned way in. Can you force it to slow down by closing the throttle plate with you hand. Might need a governor static adjustment since you have changed the carb.

[Puddin99]

The idle speed is about 1.5 turns out. Although it doesn't seem to make a difference where I turn it.
If I apply pressure to the throttle plate, it will idle down. It's supposed to be a OEM carb - like for like. Do you think the governor would still need to be adjusted?

[38racing]

The idle speed is about 1.5 turns out. Although it doesn't seem to make a difference where I turn it.
If I apply pressure to the throttle plate, it will idle down. It's supposed to be a OEM carb - like for like. Do you think the governor would still need to be adjusted?

I think practice it to do static adjust even if the original is removed for cleaning and put back on.

[Puddin99]

I did a compression test tonight. I only got about 40 LBS. I assume that's pretty low unless anyone else can chime in on what it might be.
If it is low, I assume I 'might' be able to put new rings in and/or a valve job. Is it worth it?

[Merkava_4]

I find that L-head engines usually don't need valve jobs - they just need their valves cleaned. Intake and
exhaust ports can be cleaned with a miniature wire cup wheel. Chrome ring kits to restore compression.