Removing Generator Head: 5kW Coleman Powermate

[MARLIN]

Cant see how it could be leaking out of taper. some of these are tuff. put engine back on the ground,the way it would sit,then with a 2x4 and 5 pounder,(i use a 8) you want 2x4 on laminations as far back as you can,give it a shot ,then turn engine over and hit other side of the lamination.put the long bolt in a turn or two. you just need that rotor to move a little bit and it will pop off. Good luck.

[Arkie]

I agree with Marlin, if you are seeing oil come out a taper something else is not making sense!
To lock the engine you might consider removing the air cowling so as the flywheel fins are exposed and wrap a nylon strap around the flywheel several turns with the starting end hanging out betwwen a fin and anchor the final end around a bolt or the head OR if you use the old Indian rope trick, which is feeding a nylon rope into the spark plug hole on top of the piston so as to lock the piston when it comes up on the COMPRESSION stroke. Make sure it's on the compression stroke, both valves closed or the rope can get under or around a valve's head and bend a valve. I would use the strap around the flywheel, but either of these methods by itself is not going to let you torque wiggle the rotor back and forth.

You might call these people (Pramac) before you get any rougher with the unit give them the model number and ask for tech support and ask if it's a standard taper, etc!
They would aslo have rotor info/ interchange part numbers etc if you have to go to ebay or look for a replacement rotor!



They bought out Coleman awhile back and have been kinda ok with tech support info, etc, but slow on e-mails sometimes.

Coleman Powermate generator info! (now owned by Pramac America)
http://www.powermate.com/productmanuals.php?cat_id=3 (download owners manuals)
http://www.pramac.com/United-States/ie/ ... utions.asp
800-445-1805
http://www.powermate.com/

http://www.powermate.com/contact.php

Generators / Home Standby:
• Customer Service: 1-888-977-2622
• Technical Service: 1-800-445-1805
• Email: generatorservices@powermate.com

[smallen]

post model of generator
i have seen some with holes in rotor shaft, use the rotor bolt as you have, thread hole to 7/16 or 1/2" as needed, use fine thread bolt if possible,
if you have any old bearing, drop a ball bearing in on the end of push rod, w/grease, this will cut down on friction
tighten then hit rotor sides, keep at it till it pops loose
i have bent the push rod bolts inside the rotor before, they can be stubborn sometimes
make sure your threads are deeper than end of pushrod, dont want bolt to bottom out before rotor pops off
what piece did you crack, post pic of it

[AUEngineer]

Cant see how it could be leaking out of taper. some of these are tuff. put engine back on the ground,the way it would sit,then with a 2x4 and 5 pounder,(i use a 8) you want 2x4 on laminations as far back as you can,give it a shot ,then turn engine over and hit other side of the lamination.put the long bolt in a turn or two. you just need that rotor to move a little bit and it will pop off. Good luck.

When you say use 8lb or 5lb hammer and give it a "shot", how hard of a "shot" are you giving the 2x4 on the laminations? I'm hitting this so hard, I'm afraid I might bend the crankshaft?

[AUEngineer]

Make sure it's on the compression stroke, both valves closed or the rope can get under or around a valve's head and bend a valve. I would use the strap around the flywheel, but either of these methods by itself is not going to let you torque wiggle the rotor back and forth.

Arkie, as I'm not a small engine repair person by trade (or even practice--I'm sure this is obvious by now), could you tell me how I determine when the engine is on the compression stroke? Feel for air coming out of muffler, then on the next stroke up, put the rope in the cylinder? Also, thanks so much for the Pramac America contact information!

[Arkie]

post model of generator
i have seen some with holes in rotor shaft, use the rotor bolt as you have, thread hole to 7/16 or 1/2" as needed, use fine thread bolt if possible,
if you have any old bearing, drop a ball bearing in on the end of push rod, w/grease, this will cut down on friction
tighten then hit rotor sides, keep at it till it pops loose
i have bent the push rod bolts inside the rotor before, they can be stubborn sometimes
make sure your threads are deeper than end of pushrod, dont want bolt to bottom out before rotor pops off
what piece did you crack, post pic of it

Agree with smallen. You happened to run into a tough one.

Thread it with fine thread and it will have more bite meat metal and less like to strip out the push bolt! Make sure you thread it deep enough.
The ball bearing in on the top of the center rod is a good idea. Do make sure you thread it deep enough like smallen says!
You won't do any good if you run out of threads inside the rotor.

Tighten down the push bolt, but stop cranking when it gets tight, peck with hammer and re-snug, let sit about hr or more peck push bolt and re-snug. Let it sit overnight and do this again. I have a very hot air industrial blow gun that I sometimes use on flywheels and bearings that are in a restricted area and heat/cool works wonders. A hair dryer sometimes will help, just the heating and cooling of the crankshaft end sometimes works wonders while the push bolt has tension.I bet it's severely rusted together, like some flywheels I've encountered!

[AUEngineer]

post model of generator

Coleman Powermate Model PM0545305.03

[AUEngineer]

what piece did you crack, post pic of it

[AUEngineer]

Thread it with fine thread and it will have more bite meat metal and less like to strip out the push bolt! Make sure you thread it deep enough.
The ball bearing in on the top of the center rod is a good idea. Do make sure you thread it deep enough like smallen says!
You won't do any good if you run out of threads inside the rotor.

I have already threaded 3/8" standard thread... stripped top portion, threaded deeper. Will need longer tap to thread even deeper. Rust is likely the culprit, as I can see between block and end housing lots of rust in vicinity of crankshaft. Now that I've threaded 3/8", I doubt 7/16" will work, and certainly not fine thread, correct? Hope I can make this work with 3/8" standard threads??

Tighten down the push bolt, but stop cranking when it gets tight, peck with hammer and re-snug, let sit about hr or more peck push bolt and re-snug. Let it sit overnight and do this again. I have a very hot air industrial blow gun that I sometimes use on flywheels and bearings that are in a restricted area and heat/cool works wonders.

I have industrial heat gun, but have no idea how to apply heat to the taper effectively? Afraid I might melt or damage the plastic flywheel looking fan that covers the taper. IMO, this really is a terrible design--no good way to get these things off.

[smallen]

rotor # oo49620 looks like it went nla
rotor bolt # 0035055 is available
crank in slip ring support may be able to be salvaged with a little super glue, squeeze crack together with clamp to keep slip ring from bowing
slip ring should be checked in lathe with dial indicator to be sure it is running true
if it fails it can be replaced with used slip ring from another rotor, does not have to be same model